You can’t read the white texts painted on to the white walls of the empty and partially excavated German pavilion. I heard the sound of frantic drilling emanating from behind the doors of the Chinese pavilion. You are asked to remain silent as you traipse through the Italian pavilion, which seems like a parody of a Mike Nelson installation. In the wake of Black Lives Matter, Covid and escalating existential dread, this biennale was bound to be different. The Russian pavilion is closed (the curators resigned) and Ukraine has a large presence both off-site and in the dusty spaces between the national pavilions. We wander about, wearing masks and carrying tote bags. It is also the first time that a black British artist, Sonia Boyce, has won the Golden Lion for best national pavilion. As well as being the first biennale since the pandemic, this is the first time the main exhibition has been predominantly devoted to women, trans and non-binary artists. Business as usual, you might say, but there are no trillionaire oligarch yachts moored by the Giardini and there is less razzmatazz all round. W onders and marvels, the beautiful and the terrible, the celebratory and the morbid all fill the 59th Venice Biennale.
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